Yaowarat: Lives on the Dragon Road

In addition to its architectural heritage, characterized by its multiculturalism as cultural melting pot for more than two centuries (Yaowarat: Architectural Melting Pot), Yaowarat also holds invaluable treasure for the society: its cultural heritage and memory that are passed on for generations in the Thai-Chinese communities. As the main center of trade and commerce attracting people from different countries, especially China, there is no other place in Thailand that embraces a great variety of Chinese culture in one neighborhood like Yaowarat. Although its role as commercial hub has gradually faded, and businesses and well-to-do residents have moved to other areas of the expanding city, the remaining residents, however, still continue to practice their culture. This makes Yaowarat a center of Chinese crafts, religion and food, despite the general Chinese population’s gradual assimilation into Thai society.

Yaowarat Road, the main thoroughfare of Bangkok’s Chinatown

Yaowarat is centered, as its name suggests, around Yaowarat Road, which was built between 1891 – 1900 by a decree of King Chulalongkorn. The path of the road is said to resemble a dragon’s curvy body, making it a propitious location for business. The district also includes other roads (“thanon”), lanes (“soi”) and alleys (“trok”). Running parallel to the Dragon Road are Charoen Krung Road, Bangkok’s major traffic artery, and Sampheng Lane, a narrow, crowded pedestrian-only lane with small shops. Crossing these three are among others Mangkon Road, Songwat Road, Songsawat Road, as well as Soi Phadung Dao, Soi Plaeng Nam and Trok Itsaranuphap.

As one of the oldest Chinese communities, Yaowarat is the center of Chinese arts and crafts in Thailand. Besides folk wisdoms and cultural beliefs, Chinese immigrants who came to work here in the late 17th century also brought arts and artisanal skills, which are passed on for generations. Here, you can find almost everything related to Chinese culture, rituals and traditions. You can still hear conversations in various Chinese dialects, buy Chinese herbal medicines, hunt for special cooking ingredients or sample Chinese dishes that you cannot find anywhere in Thailand.

A joss paper shop at Charoenchai Community, the largest center of joss paper production in Thailand. Most of them are family businesses
Colorful joss paper offerings, made for burning in ancestral worship according to Chinese beliefs
With 40 gold shops on the main road and more than 130 in the neighborhood, Yaowarat Road is dubbed the “Golden Road” of Thailand
Huey Ying, one of the main traditional Chinese medicine shops in Bangkok’s Chinatown

Despite its fairly compact area, Yaowarat is home to an impressive number of small local communities. Wandering around in the complex web of alleyways, you can catch a peek into the local community life, which is strongly tied to Chinese culture. Worthy of special mention is Charoenchai Community, tucked down the narrow alley Trok Charoenchai off Charoen Krung Road. Surrounded by Yaowarat’s five important temples and shrines, people in this Thai-Chinese community have long earned their living by selling joss paper and ritual-related goods. Many of wooden shophouses here date from the last century. These elements make this community an invaluable cultural heritage. Since 2010, residents have been working zealously with historians, architects and cultural activists to preserve and restore architectural assets and promote the community’s cultural identity. The project has raised public awareness and served a model for many other historic communities in Bangkok, since there are concerns that old communities might be displaced by land development due to the construction of Wat Mangkon MRT station, which is just a stone’s throw from the community.

Market vendors sharing breakfast together during the morning break at Talat Mai, which means “New Market” despite it being around hundred years old
Old shophouses in Trok Charoenchai. Some houses still have original structure dating back to the period of King Chulalongkorn.
Inside Ban Kao Lao Rueang, the first and only museum in Yaowarat that is designed and operated by local people. It is housed in an old building once inhabited by a Chinese opera troupe.
Old posters explaining face and palm reading according to Chinese beliefs, displayed at Ban Kao Lao Rueang
Lao Seng Heng, a grocery shop that has been running business for three generations in Charoenchai Community
Daily news update provided to the public by Xing Zhong Yuan, one of the six Chinese newspaper publishers that still run in Thailand

Nowadays, we can still find a few schools in Yaowarat that offer formal education with focus on Chinese language and culture. One of them is Pei-ing School, a private school established in 1920. Several prominent Chinese-Thai businessmen and politicians graduated from this school, tucked behind a Chinese shrine on Songwat Road.

The main building of Pei-ing School in colonial style with Neo-classic influences

Yaowarat is a heaven for foodies. It has the widest and best selection of Chinese food for every budget. You can try exotic delicacies at high-end restaurants, or venture into the side-streets and try one of the countless hawker stalls and street restaurants. Many food stalls here are internationally acclaimed among food enthusiasts. Each of them specializes in one particular dish, which is authentic as original recipes are passed on from Chinese immigrants for generations. For cooking aficionados, head to one of several markets in Chinatown, where you can find all kinds of cooking ingredients for Chinese dishes, from dried seafood, Chinese herbs and seasonings to Chinese sausages, dumplings and fish balls.

Coffee being prepared in a traditional way in a local coffee shop at Talat Mai
Jek Pui Curry, a small food stall on the sidewalk of Mangkon Road that serves ready-to-eat dishes for more than 70 years. Local shoppers come here for a quick lunch, and only chairs are provided. So be prepared to grab a seat as fast as you can!
Uncle Xia selling his famous steamed pork dumplings for decades at his stall Kanom Jeb Pae Xia on Soi Plaeng Nam
Deep-fried snacks for a quick break in Bangkok’s Chinatown

After most stores and shops close their doors at the end of the day, another facet of Yaowarat is about to start. The street food scene of Bangkok’s Chinatown comes alive to the fullest after sunset, as people – locals and tourists alike – start to queue up on the road waiting to be seated, especially on Yaowarat Road. Illuminated neon signs, fragrant smell of Chinese herbal soup and the clank of spatula against the wok over high flame at open kitchens on the street form an exciting backdrop and soundtrack of Yaowarat’s nightlife that will give you a surreal sensory experience. After a street-food dinner, you can enjoy a drink or two at one of the bars in Soi Nana, just a few minutes’ walk from Yaowarat Road. In this neighborhood, which has become popular in recent years after old shophouses were converted into galleries, cafes and bars, modern culture meets with the traditional Thai-Chinese culture of Bangkok.

Yaowarat Road in the twilight
Sampling street food on Yaowarat Road
Yaowarat is known as a popular place to buy and sample bird’s nest and shark fin soup, controversial delicacies in Chinese cuisine.
Nightlife in Bangkok’s Chinatown

Although its prominence as commercial center has faded, Yaowarat still maintain its distinctive identity as Thailand’s center of Chinese culture, while evoking nostalgic memory of what commercial Bangkok has been in the past decades. As you can see, many highlights of Yaowarat are found in the warren of narrow alleyways, crowded markets and delicious food stalls. Therefore, the best way to explore is to go on foot. Just take your time, wander around and follow your senses. Do not be afraid to get lost, as it might turn out to be a rewarding experience to find surprises hidden on one of the alleys.

The places mentioned above are just examples that offer a glimpse of the local way of life in Bangkok’s Chinatown. There are much more places hidden in the web of tiny alleyways waiting to be explored. We have marked the location of each place in the interactive map below, as a starting point for planning your own exploration.

Despite its compact size, Yaowarat has a rich architectural heritage: from a Gothic Revival church, a cream-colored mosque in a European style to Chinese temples filled with clouds of incense and sounds of chanting. These monuments reflect its character as cultural melting pot for centuries. Nevertheless, the places listed above are just examples of the architectural marvels in Bangkok’s Chinatown. There are much more places hidden in the web of tiny alleyways waiting to be explored. We have marked the location of each place in the interactive map below, as a starting point for planning your own exploration.

Text and photos by Athikhom Saengchai

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